Burgundy and the hunt for value

This morning when I started typing “Why is burgundy wine …” into my browser, its silicon-based brain predicted the rest: “… so expensive!?”

How did it know?

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The artificial intelligence wine nerd behind the screen seemed pretty much on target when it summed up the reasons for this financial barrier to top-rank wine enjoyment, too. At that point, I quit asking. Can’t have AI taking over my job as a hard-working wine writer!

The price of Burgundy – or Bourgogne, as it’s printed on the label in French – has been on my mind since I realized that even the most generic level, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, has risen into the $20s and beyond. And that’s before likely U.S. tariffs begin taking their toll.

I was lucky to find this week’s featured wine, Moillard 2023 “Le Duché” Bourgogne Pinot Noir, at a relative bargain $22 locally, but Wine-Searcher.com lists a $29 U.S. average. It’s a good introductory Red Burgundy, showing its Pinot Noir style and Burgundian balance, but if you want anything more fancy, you’ll find the prices going up fast.

The lacquered tile roofs of the Hospices de Beaune or Hôtel-Dieu de Beaune, founded in 1443 and now a museum, are the epicenter of France’s storied Bourgogne wine region. (Google Maps image)

If you’re on a budget, you can pretty much abandon the idea of stocking up on red wines from Burgundy’s storied Côte de Nuits or Côte de Beaune. You can dream of pulling the cork from a bottle of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Montrachet Grand Cru, but if you’re not prepared to fork over $11,305 for a bottle, that taste will remain in dreamland.

With special-occasion money to spend but not enough for those grand crus, consider village-level or regional appellations, particularly less sought-after areas that still produce quality wine. There’s plenty of relative value (although predominantly white Burgundy) to be found in the Mâconnais region and Mâcon-Villages — or for reds, Mercurey.

For the most reliable value-hunting, though, I recommend prowling the Bourgogne Rouge selection, often labeled Bourgogne Pinot Noir in English. You’ll save on these wines because they’re not limited to specific villages or vineyard regions but may be made from grapes grown throughout the region. Look for offerings from respected producers like Louis Jadot, Joseph Drouhin, and today’s featured wine, Moillard; or distributed by importers you trust.

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Burgundy is among the world’s great wines, but it’s expensive. Are you willing to make the investment? Cost-saving tips to share?

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