I don’t taste Riesling as much as I should, so I gladly grabbed a New Zealand item the other day. I didn’t notice the vintage until I got home: 2019!
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Now, this may be the point where you sit back and mutter, “So what?” Seven years isn’t a particularly long time.
For an ageworthy wine, a pricey bottle that demands gentle cellaring under controlled temperature and humidity, seven years is trivial. Top Bordeaux, Barolos, Vintage Ports from the 1960s are still doing well in quality cellars, with years of life still ahead. I know of wine collectors who celebrated New Year’s Eve 2000 by opening a flight of Bordeaux first growths from 1900, and found them impressive.
But that’s not what we’re talking about here. Most of the wines that we pick up at the corner wine shop to enjoy with dinner tonight aren’t meant for cellaring. You’ll see plenty of 2023 and 2024 bottles. Occasionally even a 2025. Go back a year or two before that and you may think twice, particularly if it’s a white wine or lighter red.
There are exceptions, of course. With wine, there are almost always exceptions. Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino, for instance, must be aged for at least five years before the wine can even be legally shipped and sold; ditto for Spain’s Rioja Gran Reserva.
But a New Zealand Riesling priced in the $20 range, normally released within a year or two after the vintage, is not that kind of wine.
Or is it?
Riesling is known for its ability to develop petrol or kerosene notes, but why do some wines have higher levels than others? Photo via SevenFifty Daily, courtesy of Australian Wine Research Institute.
Here’s where this adventure shifts from a slightly embarrassing event (”if you’re such an expert, why didn’t you notice the vintage before you bought the wine?”) to the kind of learning experience that makes wine interesting. Would the wine still taste good? Could it, in fact, be even better with a little unintentional cellaring?
There’s ground for pessimism here, but also a hint of optimism.
First, the bad news: As noted, most wines meant for everyday drinking aren’t designed for the long haul. They may never be better than when they are young and fresh. What’s more, the wine hasn’t been cellared. It’s been on the retailer’s shelf for some time, and before that, it reposed in a distributor’s warehouse, not likely under cellar conditions. Even assuming quality importing, distribution, and handling, it hasn’t been getting tender loving care.
But there’s good news, too: First, wine in general isn’t as fragile as we think it is, particularly in a full bottle with a sound closure. And, to the point of this particular wine, Riesling is one of the most bulletproof white varieties. Not only high-end treasures from Germany’s Rhine and Mosel but even more everyday Rieslings from around the world can hold up – and even become more interesting – with time in the bottle.
I’m happy to report that this Riesling was just fine. There was no sign of the bronze or brown hues that darken a geriatric white wine. Its mixed-fruit aromas and flavors were nicely shaped with brisk, food-friendly acidity, and a note of the odd, minerally “petrol” scent of older Rieslings added interest. This seven-year-old is going strong.
At the wine shop you spot a seven-year-old vintage of a wine that doesn’t really need aging. Do you give it a try or just put it back?
Today’s Tasting Report
Spy Valley 2019 Marlborough Riesling ($18.99)
Clear straw-color Spy Valley 2019 Marlborough Riesling opens with the characteristic “petrol” scent that often shows up in Riesling. It always seems odd at first but becomes appealing as it gives way to juicy, appetizing notes of mango, crisp apple, and pear, all of which carry over to a dry and briskly acidic flavor, with stony minerality becoming evident in a long finish. 12.5% alcohol. U.S. importer: Broadbent Selections Inc., Sonoma, Calif. (Sept. 12, 2026)
FOOD MATCH: Riesling is among the most versatile and food-friendly wines at the table. It would be an excellent match with a range of cheeses, dinner salads, smoked salmon,
WHEN TO DRINK: How much longer can a seven-year-old Riesling last? This 2019 bottle is still so bright, appealing, and yes, still fresh, I wouldn’t bet against another five years.
VALUE: Wine-Searcher.com lists a $23 average U.S. retail price, which is fully justified by its quality. Based on my local $19 toll, I’m opening this review to all Wine Advisor readers.
WEB LINK: Here is importer Broadbent’s Spy Valley info page. You’ll also enjoy this report on the winery’s story and heritage.
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Wine-Searcher.com lists no U.S. vendors for Spy Valley Marlborough Riesling, which seems odd since I bought it here recently without difficulty. Check local wineshops or contact importer Broadbent Selections.
Read about New Zealand’s Marlborough region at this Wine-Searcher link.
Go to this Wine-Searcher link for background on the Riesling grape and links to many Riesling wines and vendors.
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Good wines we’ve tried under $12!
Want tips to still more good, inexpensive wines? Here are Wine-Searcher links to vendors and prices for a bunch more wines for $12 or less that I’ve told you about in recent years. In some cases, the prices may have risen since I reviewed them, but they should still be excellent bargains. Please tell us about your favorites!
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I lived in Germany for six years (most recently 2009) and LOVE Riesling. I had the good fortune to have a local wine dealer who occasionally bought wine from estates. The really old bottles were sold to those seeking special bottles from their birth years, or other important years. But sometimes more recent vintages showed up in the shop, sometimes in beat up old cardboard boxes, with very low prices (under $10, inflation adjusted). I bought quite a few, all with 5+ years of age, a few with 10+. In most cases, these were Kabinett or Spaetlese wines, and NOT dry (Trocken). They were all from lesser-known producers in the Rheingau and Mosel, probably rarely if ever exported to the US, and without exception they drank well. I am not a fan of the "petrol" characteristics, but recognize it is not a flaw. It was hit or miss and I could never see a pattern as to which wines were "petrolly" and which weren't -- most were not. Several of these wines were exceptionally good, really some of the best wines I've ever tasted, and certainly the best value wines I've purchased.
Nothing beats the sheer thrill of finding a forgotten bottle, bracing for the worst and being greeted by a banger. Had this happen to me last week with a Great Southern Riesling that was 10 bucks in the shop when I bought it.