Naturally fizzy
If you worry about taking wine too seriously, consider “Spuma!” Frizzante, a light, fun, and fizzy quaff that used to delight Italian vineyard farmers.
Getting its bubbles from a natural secondary fermentation in the bottle (“pét-nat”), this happy wine is made with Sorbara, the most desirable grape in Lambrusco, the northeastern Italian wine region better known for the cheap, forgettable sweet and bubbly reds that were a hit back in the ’70s.
In recent years, quite a few small-production, artisanally produced Lambruscos have gotten attention as more interesting alternatives to the old Cella or Riunite Lambrusco, and that’s a good thing.
Have you tried a pét-nat wine? What did you think?
Tell us about it in Substack Chat!
This week’s featured wine, FUSO + Denny Bini “Spuma!” Frizzante Reggio Emilia Sorbara, takes a step beyond. Certified organic and naturally produced, it’s classified Reggio Emilia rather than Lambrusco. Its offbeat style and fascinating complexity make it a keeper.
A rainbow spans new vineyard rows at Denny Bini’s Podere Cipolla winery in Reggio Emilia. (Photo from the winery’s Facebook page.)
Importer Portovino of Buffalo, N.Y. brings in this wine as part of its FUSO program, which according to the importer “is our project to search for and bottle Italy’s natural and characterful daily drinkers. We work with farmers and producer friends who are committed to organic viticulture, low-intervention, and terroir-driven wines.”
In other words, these are joyful Italian wines, honest and frankly enjoyable, meant for everyday pleasure without pomp or splendor.
On its “Spuma!” Frizzante page, Portovino tells more: “If you’re an acid-head, and also like lasagna, there’s no better grape to look for in Emilia-Romagna than Sorbara. Long considered the more mineral-driven and less fruity Lambrusco grape, Sorbara makes sparkling wines that are racy – tingling with unripe red fruits.”
According to wine maker Denny Bini, “it was always a bit of a revelation for farmers going down into the cellar to see if a bottle of their fermented wine would actually undergo secondary fermentation, and had the fizz or spuma ooze out. If it did, one declared Spuma! in anticipatory celebration of something fizzy for a meal or aperitivo.” (Your sommelier friends may call this “pét-nat,” short for the French for “naturally fizzy.”)
As a vine grower and wine maker, Denny Bini keeps a commitment to tread lightly on the earth. His Podere Cipolla winery earned Slow Wine’s Snail Award in 2020.
Citing Podere Cipolla’s efforts at sustainability in fertilizers, plant protection, weed control, yeasts, and grapes, the award described Bini as “an authentic vintner, full of enthusiasm and common sense, but also of competence and sensibility. Four virtues that make him an example for the whole area.”
Here’s my tasting report. This is not a large-production wine, but it is fairly widely distributed. I hope you can find it, and I believe you’ll enjoy it. Also check Wine-Searcher for Lambrusco di Sorbara alternatives.
Today’s Tasting Report
FUSO + Denny Bini “Spuma!” Frizzante Reggio Emilia Sorbara ($18.99)
Certified organic and made with Lambrusco di Sorbara grapes, “Spuma!” Frizzante is a delightful lightly sparkling natural wine. Its beer-bottle-style crown cap comes off with a loud pop. It pours with a foamy white mousse that falls back fast, revealing a pretty orange-bronze color. Its complex aroma is challenging to sort out: There’s subtle strawberry and tart cranberry, a hint of white grapefruit and an earthy suggestion of damp clay. Its fresh, slightly fizzy fruit flavor is consistent with the aromas, with mouth-watering acidity cloaking just a hint of sweetness. 11.5% alcohol. U.S. importer: (July 14, 2024)
FOOD MATCH: It’s perfect for summer sipping as an aperitif, but its fresh and dry acidity make it a match for traditional Italian fare from pasta and pizza to lasagna. Try it, too, with moderately spicy Asian cuisines.
WHEN TO DRINK: This non-vintage wine is not made for cellaring; even its beer-bottle style crown cap says “drink me now.” Or at least within a few months after you bring it home.
VALUE:
This intriguing natural wine is a decent value at my $19 local price. Wine-Searcher.com currently lists a $21 average U.S. retail price, but many merchants offer it in the upper teens. Wine-Searcher’s average appears to be thrown off by higher prices at several New York retailers, so shop prudently.
WEB LINK:
Here’s a detailed fact sheet from importer Portovino. Read more about Portovino’s FUSO program on this importer page. Finally, here’s Denny Bini’s Podere Cipolla page on Facebook. It’s in Italian, but you can still find the “Like” button!
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Check prices and find vendors for “Spuma!” Frizzante on Wine-Searcher.com.
Read more about Lambrusco di Sorbara wines at this Wine-Searcher link.
Find the wines you want
Explore Wine-Searcher
Wine-Searcher.com is the place to go online if you want to find where to buy a particular wine that interests you. What’s more, Wine-Searcher.com offers so much more. It’s well worth a visit just to discover its many features, including its popular list of the world’s Top 10 Best Value Wines.
Good wines we’ve tried under $10.99!
Want tips to still more good, inexpensive wines? Here are Wine-Searcher links to vendors and prices for a bunch more wines for $10.99 or less that I’ve told you about in recent years. In some cases the prices may have risen over the $10.99 mark since I reviewed them, but they should still be excellent bargains. Please tell us about your favorites!
Sponsor the Wine Advisor.
Support The 30 Second Wine Advisor and help us pay the rent while reaching 25,000 dedicated readers with your sponsorship message in this space, at the top of this E-letter, and on our social media. If you’re an established business in wine, food, and similar ventures, there’s no better way to focus your message toward an audience that comes here for just those topics. See our Sponsorship Page, or email Robin Garr for more information.
Wine Forum and Social Media
You’re always welcome to drop by our WineLovers Discussion Group, the Internet’s first and most civil online community. Discussions are open for public viewing, but you must register to post. To request registration, please contact me at wine@wineloverspage.com, tell me your name, mention the Wine Advisor, and briefly say why you’d like to participate in the forum. Sorry about the minor red tape, but this is our simple, low-tech way to deter spammers and bots.
I’d also be delighted to have you visit and “like” our WineLovers Facebook Page.
Read more articles from The 30 Second Wine Advisor
Previous issue: « Greek wine Odyssey
Hi Robin! I’m in Louisville. Have loved your food and wine writings for, like, ever! Can you tell me where in LouCity I can find these puma frizzante wines? Or is that allowed on here? I’ve been hitting the summer spritzes and “fizzy water” ever since I went to Milan a couple of years ago. I used to cut the icky sweet Lambrusco with diet 7Up. It’s still my favorite mixer (or diet ginger ale) with no aftertaste or yucky fake sweetener taste. Or La Croix to cut the sweet and lighten it up any more. Would love to find a non Prosecco light everyday drinker like the one you describe.