Looking for cheap Nebbiolo? Good luck ...

Think of just about any major world wine region, and chances are you can find a passable (if not world-altering) example for $20 or less. Except maybe Nebbiolo.

A $15 Bordeaux, for example, like this tasty item from the Right Bank, may not be a match for a $962 jug of Chateau Margaux,, but you can enjoy it with pleasure and discern that it’s a Bordeaux. Similarly, you could pay $7,451 for Romanee-Conti La Tache, but you’ll still sip a recognizable Burgundy if you go for a Bourgogne Pinot Noir in the upper teens.

It’s the same story in Tuscany, where Chianti was once viewed as a cheap red wine sered with pizza in wicker-wrapped bottles that could later be repurposed as candlesticks. …