Italy’s other corner
Stick a star on the map of Italy to highlight the most sought-after wines, and you’ll likely post it in the north and northwest: Tuscany or Piemonte.
This is a reasonable pick, of course: The Chianti, Brunello, and pricey Super Tuscans made Tuscany the go-to for generations of wine lovers outside Italy; those in the know also flocked to the classy Barolo and Barbaresco of Piemonte’s Alpine foothills.
The other Italy: Today we’re celebrating Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Are you a fan? Tell us your favorites.
But Italy has so much more to offer the wine lover! There are more than 400 designated wine regions extending all the way from the top to the sole of the nation’s famously boot-shaped profile, not to mention Sicily perched like a soccer ball just off its Calabrian toe. I can’t think of any other wine-producing country that pours out so much good wine from just about every nook and cranny.
Today I’d like to turn from that Northwestern hunting ground to the far side of the other upper corner: Friuli-Venezia Giulia, perched on Italy’s Northeastern shoulder. Not far northeast of Venice – which, by the way, makes a fine place to launch a visit – Friuli-Venezia Giulia incorporates the intriguing city Trieste, the historic city Udine, and the Italo-Slavic city Gorizia, among many smaller towns and villages.
Working in the vineyards at Ronco dei Tassi in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Photo from importer Indigenous Selections.
Friuli borders German-speaking Austria on the north and the former Yugoslav republic Slovenia on the east, and you’ll find elements of German, Slavic, and Italian language, culture, and wine traditions mixing here in an enticing mosaic.
Within this relatively small space lies an amazing wealth of history and terrain: It’s less than a two-hour drive north from warm and sunny beaches on the Gulf of Trieste in the Adriatic to craggy Alps, prompting local promoters to call the region “Europe in a day’s drive.”
For more than 1,000 years, Friuli was a part of the Venetian Empire, until Napoleon conquered the region in the early 1800s, then sold it to the Austro-Hungarian Empire to finance his war in Russia. It was governed by German-speaking Austria for the next century or so, until a sizable chunk of the region became officially Italian again with the unification of Italy in 1866. The regions bordering Yugoslavia rejoined Italy after World War I, when it was a major battleground. (Ernest Hemingway’s war novel “A Farewell to Arms” is set here.)
After World War II, the Iron Curtain descended across the region, separating neighbor from neighbor and even dividing families in the section called Collio in Italy and Brda in Slovenia (but meaning “hills” in both languages). That metaphorical wall fell in 1991 with Slovenia’s bloodless withdrawal from the Yugoslav Republic. Now the once-troubled but always-proud Friuli is becoming known as a beautiful place to visit … and it’s enjoying a growing reputation as a source of really excellent wine.
As you will hear in a virtual mantra from wine producers throughout Friuli, the geography that provides Friuli’s beauty also benefits its wines: The warmth of the Adriatic ensures long, warm summer days that foster ripening; the cool Alpine breezes that descend from the Alps and the Balkans by night keep the climate mild, encouraging the development of grapes of high quality.
A lot of the region’s wine production is modest, drinkable Pinot Grigio from its western Friuli flatlands, which may help explain why its reputation lags behind its northwestern neighbors. But Venezia-Giulia, particularly the sub-regions Collio, Colli Orientali, Isonzo, and Carso in its hilly eastern landscape bordering Slovenia, produces both white and red wines well worth serious attention.
Wine-grape explorers love to discover its less-familiar varieties like Schioppettino, Terana, and Refosco dal Pedunculo Rosso. But international red grapes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc show off local accents here too.
Today’s featured wine, Vigna Del Lauro Cabernet Franc from the Ronco dei Tassi winery in Isonzo, is an excellent place to dive into the region’s wines, and a very fine value for $20 or less.
Today’s Tasting Report
Ronco dei Tassi 2023 “Vigna Del Lauro” Friuli-Venezia Giulia Cabernet Franc ($18.99)
Clear garnet in color, Vigna Del Lauro Cabernet Franc offers fresh, if relatively simple, scents of dried cherries, black pepper, and hints of plums and pomegranate. Good black fruit flavors carry over on the palate in pleasing fruit character, fragrant pepper, and refreshing acidity. Moderate 12.5% alcohol makes it a good choice for sipping or enjoyment with dinner. U.S. importer: Indigenous Selections LLC, Fort Lauderdale, Fla. (Feb. 18, 2025)
FOOD MATCH: This relatively simple, fruity yet balanced wine would be an easy match with beef, sausages, or grilled poultry, bean dishes, polenta with rich sauces, or with hard Italian cheeses from Parmigiano to Friuli’s own Montasio.
WHEN TO DRINK: Although it’s not a candidate for long cellaring, this 2023 vintage should offer drinking pleasure through 2028.
VALUE:
Wine-Searcher.com’s $19 average U.S. retail matches my local price, and I’d rate it a very good value at that point.
WEB LINK:
Here’s a fact sheet on this wine from importer Indigenous Selections.
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Check prices and find vendors for Vigna Del Lauro Cabernet Franc on Wine-Searcher.com.
Read about the wines of Friuli-Venezia Giulia and browse listings for wines and vendors at this Wine-Searcher link.
Follow this Wine-Searcher link to read about the Cabernet Franc grape and find dozens of wines and vendors.
Find the wines you want
Explore Wine-Searcher
Wine-Searcher.com is the place to go online if you want to find where to buy a particular wine that interests you. What’s more, Wine-Searcher.com offers so much more. It’s well worth a visit just to discover its many features, including its popular list of the world’s Top 10 Best Value Wines.
Good wines we’ve tried under $10.99!
Want tips to still more good, inexpensive wines? Here are Wine-Searcher links to vendors and prices for a bunch more wines for $10.99 or less that I’ve told you about in recent years. In some cases, the prices may have risen over the $10.99 mark since I reviewed them, but they should still be excellent bargains. Please tell us about your favorites!
Sponsor the Wine Advisor.
Support The 30 Second Wine Advisor and help us pay the rent while reaching 25,000 dedicated readers with your sponsorship message in this space, at the top of this E-letter, and on our social media. If you’re an established business in wine, food, and similar ventures, there’s no better way to focus your message toward an audience that comes here for just those topics. See our Sponsorship Page, or email Robin Garr for more information.
Wine Forum and Social Media
You’re always welcome to drop by our WineLovers Discussion Group, the Internet’s first and most civil online community. Discussions are open for public viewing, but you must register to post. To request registration, please contact me at wine@wineloverspage.com, tell me your name, mention the Wine Advisor, and briefly say why you’d like to participate in the forum. Sorry about the minor red tape, but this is our simple, low-tech way to deter spammers and bots.
I’d also be delighted to have you visit and “like” our WineLovers Facebook Page.
Read more articles from The 30 Second Wine Advisor
Previous Issue: « Happy Valen-wine’s Day!
Why focus on an international varietal, CabFranc when introducing Friuli-Venezia, when the regions glories are its whites and skin contact wines?