Banned in Burgundy!
Trivia fun! What do the Melon grape of Muscadet and the Gamay grape of Beaujolais have in common? They’ve both been banned in Burgundy!
As I’ve mentioned before, the 14th Century Duke Philip the Bold of Burgundy so despised Gamay’s purported inferiority that he outlawed it in Bourgogne in 1395. He ordered all of the region’s Gamay vines – except for Beaujolais – ripped out by the roots, leaving Pinot Noir as Burgundy’s signature red grape to this day.
Today we’re talking about Gamay and Melon, two grapes banned long ago in Burgundy but beloved, respectively, in Beaujolais and the Loire. Let’s hear your thoughts!
Actually, a bit of Gamay still sneaks in to less elevated Burgundies in three modest categories where it is permitted: Bourgogne Gamay, Bourgogne Rouge, and Bourgogne Passetoutgrains. But when we’re talking about the Burgundies that draw critical attention and wine lover dollars, it’s all Pinot, and we can thank the Duke for that.
In similar fashion, Melon de Bourgogne was long used in white Burgundies, along with – or possibly even in place of – the more respected Chardonnay. Eventually, though, about 300 years after Gamay was ushered out, the successor Dukes of Burgundy gave Melon a similar bum’s rush.
Melon (“meh-lawN” in French, not “melon” like a cantaloupe) had been popular mainly because it was a heavy, profitable producer, but the Dukes of Bourgogne, continuing in their quest to elevate Bourgogne to greatness, formally expelled it in favor of Chardonnay in 1709.
Ripe Melon de Bourgogne grapes ready for harvest at Domaine Jean Aubron in Muscadet. (Photo from the winery’s web page.)
Coincidentally, just at that time a vicious winter killed many of the grapevines in the Loire, Wine-Searcher reports on its Melon page. “What the Dukes of Burgundy regarded as an over-productive variety of little viticultural interest, growers in the Loire saw as the cold-resistant answer to their troubles.”
So just as Beaujolais gained a trademark grape from Burgundy’s disdain, the Loire – particularly the Sèvre-et-Maine region around Nantes where the Loire empties into the Atlantic – benefited mightily from Melon’s expulsion.
Melon may have been too bland for Burgundy, but it thrives in Sèvre-et-Maine’s cool coastal terroir, making a crisp, acidic white wine that’s refreshing, a cooperative partner at the dinner table, and – particularly when made “sur lie,” left to age on the spent yeast left after fermention – highlighted with an attractive stony, chalky minerality.
And just to put an asterisk on the story, Melon is actually an offspring of Burgundy’s Pinot Noir. It is the result of a cross between Pinot and the less familiar Gouais Blanc.
This week’s featured wine, Jean Aubron 2022 Cuvée Elégance Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Grand Fief de l’Audigère, is a fine example, and it comes at a very attractive price in the middle teens. Here’s my tasting report.
Today’s Tasting Report
Jean Aubron 2022 Cuvée Elégance Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Grand Fief de l’Audigère ($14.99)
Made from sustainably grown grapes, Jean Aubron Cuvée Elégance Muscadet is aged sur lie (left on its spent yeast cells to add complexity) in glass-lined cement tanks for 10 months. A distinct greenish hue highlights its light straw color, and its inviting aroma blends white grapefruit, lemon and lime, white pepper and a hint of white flowers. Bone-dry without a whisper of sweetness, its flavors mix citrus, tart apples, and chalky minerality in a beautiful expression of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine. 12.5% alcohol. U.S. importer: Fruit of the Vine Selections, Long Island City, N.Y, Vinotas Selections. (Aug. 7, 2024)
FOOD MATCH: Oysters, crab, and lobster, shellfish in general are the natural match for this wine from France’s salty Atlantic coast at the mouth of the Loire. It would go well, too, with mild goat cheese, mushroom pasta, or green vegetable dishes like our choice, air-fried okra pods straight from the garden.
WHEN TO DRINK: This wine is so young and fresh and full of life that I’d be tempted to drink it up soon. However, if you have a quality cellar, Sur lie Muscadet has potential to gain added complexity with several years of aging.
VALUE:
It’s an excellent value in the middle teens. Wine-Searcher.com lists a $14 average U.S. retail price.
WEB LINK:
Importer Vinotas selections features its wines on this Facebook page, where you’ll find this glowing review of the Jean Aubron 2022 Muscadet. There’s also a series of photos of Jean Aubron’s winery and vineyards in 2008 at this Facebook link.
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Check prices and find vendors for Jean Aubron Cuvée Elégance Muscadet Sur Lie on Wine-Searcher.com.
Follow this Wine-Searcher link to read more about Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine and its wines.
Learn more about Muscadet’s Melon de Bourgogne variety at this Wine-Searcher link.
Discover Domaine Jean Aubron’s portfolio and look for vendors at this Wine-Searcher link.
Find the wines you want
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Wine-Searcher.com is the place to go online if you want to find where to buy a particular wine that interests you. What’s more, Wine-Searcher.com offers so much more. It’s well worth a visit just to discover its many features, including its popular list of the world’s Top 10 Best Value Wines.
Good wines we’ve tried under $10.99!
Want tips to still more good, inexpensive wines? Here are Wine-Searcher links to vendors and prices for a bunch more wines for $10.99 or less that I’ve told you about in recent years. In some cases the prices may have risen over the $10.99 mark since I reviewed them, but they should still be excellent bargains. Please tell us about your favorites!
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So interesting, thanks Robin!