Australia, but not Shiraz!?
Quick! Name the first Australian grape variety that pops into your head! I’m wondering if anyone will respond with anything other than “Shiraz.”
I buy all the wines I review and accept no free samples. Your subscriptions make that possible. Please support us: Upgrade to Paid.
Such an outcome would be far from surprising, because Shiraz – the grape that the rest of the world knows as Syrah – is Australia’s historic landmark grape, as firmly associated with the land Down Under as is Pinot Noir with Burgundy or Malbec with Argentina.
Shiraz has meant wine in Australia for almost 200 years. In an extended discussion of The Origins of the Syrah / Shiraz Wine Grape, the Australian wine merchant McLaren Vale Cellars lays it out for us:
Australia’s relationship with Shiraz began in the 1830s when James Busby, often called the father of Australian viticulture, brought vine cuttings from Europe to establish the country’s wine industry. Among these precious imports was Syrah, which would eventually become Australia’s signature red grape variety under its local name, Shiraz.
The choice to call the grape “Shiraz” rather than “Syrah” in Australia reflects the historical belief in its Persian origins. Australian winemakers embraced this exotic connection, and the name stuck even after DNA analysis revealed the grape’s true French parentage. Today, Australian Shiraz represents a distinct style that has earned global recognition and respect.
Shiraz remains the most planted wine grape in Australia, according to the trade organization Wine Australia. Shiraz holds the top spot for both red wine production and total vineyard area. About 40,000 hectares (nearly 100,000 acres) are planted, making up about one-fourth of the continent’s total vineyard acreage, it’s closely followed by Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but easily crosses the finish line first.
Of course, Australia makes other wines. I’ve enjoyed delicious Riesling from Down Under. Australia was among the first to adopt the shortcut “GSM” for delicious Rhône-style blends of Grenache, Shiraz, and Mourvèdre. Wine Australia’s 2025 Wine Sector Report lists the top five by volume of grapes crushed into wine that year: Shiraz (23%), Chardonnay (18%), Cabernet Sauvignon (14%), Sauvignon Blanc (7%), and Pinot Gris/Grigio (6%).
Quick! Name the first Australian grape variety that pops into your head! I’m wondering if anyone will respond with anything other than “Shiraz?”
And that’s not all! In his new book, Beyond Shiraz, Australian wine writer Darby Higgs presents 190 – that’s one hundred and ninety – of the country’s wine-grape plantings and tells us a little about each of them.
“Over the last two decades,” Higgs writes in his book’s information page on Substack, “so‑called alternative and emerging varieties have created a revolution in Australian wine. New arrivals and reimagined classic varieties are bringing fresh flavours, textures, and ideas.
“Just as importantly, they offer practical answers as growers and winemakers respond to shifting consumer tastes and a warming, drying climate. Drinkers are chasing energy, lift, and surprise; producers are seeking vines with heat and drought tolerance in an effort to create new expressions from familiar regions that resonate at home and abroad. The result is a dynamic, delicious rethink of what Australian wine can be.”
Featuring concise yet informational reports on 190 grapes from Alfrocheiro to Zweigelt, this useful book lists each grape’s color, country of origin, rank in Australian production, aromas and flavors, history, and food choices. It’s useful, and not just for Australian readers. This useful grape-by-grape compilation makes a handy reference for wine lovers around the world.
Buy Beyond Shiraz from Amazon.com for $15.99 in paperback or $8.99 for the Kindle ebook. Using these links will return a small but meaningful commission to us here at WineLoversPage, and for that, thanks.
I turned to its listings for the components of today’s featured wine, D’Arenberg Hermit Crab, and found them on target for this Australian white blend of Viognier (“Apricots, peaches, grapefruit, honeysuckle”) and Marsanne (“baked apples, almonds, flowers, apricots, peaches, honey, melon.”)
It’s a good wine and a good book. I recommend them both.
Today’s Tasting Report
D’Arenberg 2024 McLaren Vale The Hermit Crab Viognier Marsanne ($18.99)
A South Australian blend of 65% Viognier and 35% Marsanne, pale straw color D’Arenberg The Hermit Crab is more subtle than fruit-forward, and that’s a good thing. Still, swirling and sniffing brings out appetizing aroma notes that blend hints of peach, pineapple, tangerine, and lemon zest. Mouth-watering fresh-fruit acidity surrounds a medium-bodied, textured flavor that follows the nose. 14% alcohol. U.S. importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, Calif. (May 9, 2026)
FOOD MATCH: Seafood and fish would make natural companions, as would pork stir-fries and lightly spicy entrees. For a plant-based match, look to veggie risottos; it was perfect with risi e bisi veneziana made with fresh farmers’ market spring peas.
WHEN TO DRINK: Best enjoyed while it’s young and fresh. Enjoy it during this year, then look for newer vintages.
VALUE:
Wine-Searcher.com lists a $16 average U.S. retail price. This first-rate white wine would be a good value right on up through the $20 mark.
WEB LINK:
Here’s D’Arenberg’s Hermit Crab fact sheet.
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Check prices and find vendors for Darenberg Hermit Crab on Wine-Searcher.com.
Read about South Australia’s McLaren Vale wine region at this Wine-Searcher link.
Find the wines you want
Explore Wine-Searcher
Wine-Searcher.com is the place to go online if you want to find where to buy a particular wine that interests you. What’s more, Wine-Searcher.com offers so much more. It’s well worth a visit just to discover its many features, including its popular list of the world’s Top 10 Best Value Wines.
Good wines we’ve tried under $12!
Want tips to still more good, inexpensive wines? Here are Wine-Searcher links to vendors and prices for a bunch more wines for $12 or less that I’ve told you about in recent years. In some cases, the prices may have risen since I reviewed them, but they should still be excellent bargains. Please tell us about your favorites!
Wine Forum and Social Media
You’re always welcome to drop by our WineLovers Discussion Group, the Internet’s first and most civil online community. Discussions are open for public viewing, but you must register to post. To request registration, please contact me at wine@wineloverspage.com, tell me your name, mention the Wine Advisor, and briefly say why you’d like to participate in the forum. Sorry about the minor red tape, but this is our simple, low-tech way to deter spammers and bots.
I’d also be delighted to have you visit and “like” our WineLovers Facebook Page.
Read more articles from The 30 Second Wine Advisor
Previous Issue: « How to cope with rising wine prices
I bet that wine could be even more texturally interesting with a dollop of Roussanne.