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Randy Caparoso's avatar

When I became a wine geek, back in the late '70s, I dutifully kept a wine journal, per the classic wine pundits of the time (Harry Waugh, Michael Broadbent, Robert Lawrence Balzer, et al.). My notes were disciplined, notating color, clarity, aromas, and all the sensory impressions on the palate, including finish. It's a discipline to include it all. These, however, are notes pertinent only to one's self, or "taste memory," as Broadbent put it. It's how you learn. The same with winemakers, who must follow the discipline to track their own wines. When I became a newspaper wine columnist in 1981, however, I quickly became cognizant of the fact that tasting notes without context mean very little to readers. In fact, they're deadly boring. Yes, it's important to know how a wine tastes, but just as important or more to understand the circumstances explaining sensory qualities: Source or appellation, brand or winemaker approach, significance of grape and farming practices, comparison to other wines, food and social affinities, and on and on. Context, of course, requires a little research, preferably first hand or primary source. I traveled to wineries and vineyards; and if I couldn't do that, I corresponded or spoke via phone directly with vintners or winery principals. I bent over backwards not to copy or ape other writers. The process was as educational for me as it would be for my readers. This, in fact, was exactly why when 100-point scores popped up in the mid-1980s and quickly became the predominant way of reporting on wines, I was repulsed. Scores and tasting notes mean nothing without context. Just one example: A French Chablis actually tastes light, thin and relatively simple compared to Côte de Beaunes or garden variety California Chardonnays. The beauty of Chablis, however, is that its acidity, minerality, purity and distinct lack of varietal fruitiness are what makes it so unique and beautiful. When you score it according to standards of "Chardonnay," you totally miss the point. This is why scores and sensory tasting notes on their own not only mean very little, they are practically evil from the perspective in that they can misrepresent entire appellations, cultures, culinary and historical contexts of entire swaths of wines. In short, they can be very misleading. Irresponsible, lazy, at least in public forums. Let the buyer, and readers, beware!

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